percolate. (Nankin Row)

Percolate has always been one of those establishments that has a place in our hearts — whilst they had closed down their humble space at Bedok where the brand has been rooted in since the very start of their journey in the F&B scene, the brand is now attempting to get closer to the heart of town with its recent opening of a takeaway kiosk at the basement of TANGS Plaza that is more of a coffee stand catered for takeaways. They have also found home in a shophouse unit located along Nankin Row in Telok Ayer / Chinatown — these folks are located right beside a 7-11 store where one can find an outlet of Toast Box; they are also diagonally across the road from the Far East Square outlet of Ya Kun Kaya Toast that is often mentioned as the “original store”. The brand has seen a bit of a revitalisation with its change of logo; but whilst carrying a sense of freshness with a cleaner and more minimalistic appearance within the space that it now calls home, there is still a sense of familiarity with regulars of its Bedok space — the layout of the space replicates how the Bedok location was segmented out with smaller tables located on the right side of the space, while the middle of the shop still sees the use of a communal table albeit missing of the wall that was converted into an arch over the communal table (that wall at Bedok used to divide across two separate half-sized shop units). The entire left side of the space is now dedicated to the retail of coffee-related wares and equipment; the whole shop decked with furniture and fittings of a wooden accent that is a shade lighter than what was used previously at Bedok for a brighter look. Dining tables are arranged in a configuration that would fit around two (2) to four (4) pax, with the exception of one table that would fit a group of six (6) pax and the communal table that can accommodate even larger a group. Percolate intends for their location at Nankin Row to still deliver the full dine-in cafe experience that their Bedok space was all about; the food menu at the Nankin Row space still features light bites even for its savoury dishes though the menu seems to have evolved to not only comprise of sweet and savoury croissant items, but also croissants served with seafood pairings. Apart from these, Percolate also serves up small cakes and a variety of danishes that are all displayed prominently at the counter; the Bittersweet which is a brownie-ice cream-espresso hybrid also is offered at Nankin Row as well. Beverages are mostly centred around their specialty coffee offerings that consists of espresso-based and filter options, as well as iced teas and drinking chocolate.

Noticing how the Seafood Pairings section of the menu is an entirely new section of offerings that Percolate is serving up at their Nankin Row location, we found ourselves gravitating towards the Octopus in Garlic Sauce. Percolate mentions on their menu that the items listed in the Seafood Pairings section of the menu comes with Ati Manel-branded canned seafood that is sourced from Portugal, and that all items in the Seafood Pairings section of the menu comes with a toasted croissant — notably observed from our order of the Octopus in Garlic Sauce would also be an olive and a pickle, while it also does come with a square of unsalted butter as well. In typical thoughtful fashion that one would experience at Percolate, the toasted croissant is already sliced into four (4) pieces for easy consumption — what impresses us is how the croissant still manages to hold up its shape without looking “pressed down” despite being sliced; the insides revealing the air pockets from the lamination process whilst being crisp, light, flaky and buttery. Spreading it with the unsalted butter provides a buttery touch; all that without adding yet another dimension of saltishness that would inadvertently pile up with the inherent buttery notes of the croissant otherwise. Nonetheless, the highlight would definitely be the Ati Manel-branded canned Octopus in Garlic Sauce — no doubt intimidating at first look, but we liked how there is a fragrant savoury note that is slightly briny and garlicky within the oil that the octopus sits within. The octopus does carry a firm bite but was otherwise not rubbery at all; the savoury oils does work well for those whom prefer their croissants slightly saltier. The pickle and olives act as a palate cleanser that takes away the saltish notes with a briny and tangy note with a zing and a bit of crunch (in the case of the pickle).

It is known that Percolate does source their bakes from external sources but we have had always enjoyed the various cakes that they have to offer. We went with our all-time favourite Earl Grey Lavender Cake and the cake was adequately dense and moist; already wafting with a fragrant aroma of Earl Grey Tea, there is the additional floral aroma from the dried lavender petals that came atop. The Earl Grey Lavender Cake also came with an icing sugar glazing over the top that gives it an added sweetness which we found to be pretty apt when had together with everything else. The Espresso Tonic is also not a stranger to us considering how we have had the item several times during our past visits to Percolate since their days at Bedok. Their Espresso Tonic does come with sufficient carbonation; all that whilst coming with sufficient caffeinated kick and is quite a perk-me-up that comes with a slightly zing. Having started off from just a very small space in the heartlands, it seems that Percolate is finally scaling up — not just only by moving themselves to the heart of town, but also operating two (2) spaces whilst at it with one that targets those whom are doing quick grab-and-gos. Whilst furthering their sights for the brand’s future, Percolate still attempts to stay true to their character from the very start — the Nankin Row outlet still reminds regulars of “home” almost like a tribute for those whom have supported them during the days of their first expansion to the shop unit right beside their original in Bedok; the food still being close to what one would think about when the name “Percolate” is being mentioned. Whilst prices of the items listed in the Seafood Pairings section of the menu are slightly higher-priced ranging from $13.90 to $17.90; the lowest-priced being the Sardines in Olive Oil & Lemon while the priciest is the Octopus in Garlic Sauce that we went for, savoury croissants like the Garlic Cheese / Hae Bee Hiam / Ham & Cheese Croissant is priced from $8.50 to $9.50. Glad to have been sticking around these guys along with their journey in the local F&B scene all these while; here’s hoping for more good times with the brand in the years to come as they evolve further with the times!