Kedai Kopi Hock Seng Hin

Kangkung Belacan the way it should be done. With lots and lots of chillis and lard. The vegetables here may be simple, but the flavours are as complex as any meat dish on their menu.

Such a simple dish, yet the flavour is anything but simple. The deep levels of smoky flavour envelop the bittergourd, while the chicken lends a meaty flavour to the dish that is hard to pinpoint. An absolutely beautiful dish that puts all other renditions to shame.

Step back in time at this kopitiam, which still has all the original fittings and floorings from the 60s. The fish head is served in a thick syrupy sauce, with ginger and lots of chilli. Have it with rice, but watch out for bones!

Bring a patient foodie friend with you to Hock Seng Hin, because a long wait is almost guaranteed for its tasty, affordable dishes cooked over firewood. The trademark Chili Bean Braised Fish Head bears piquant yet incredibly appetising flavours in its thick gravy, not to mention the generous pieces of fish head. Along with it, have the Bitter Gourd With Spare Ribs, brimming with wok-hei. Tastemaker Brian Leow explains that it's prepared in the same wok that cooked the fish. Make space for more veggies and order the Belacan Choy Sam that packs fragrant belacan notes in every bite. Pro tip: The no-nonsense lady boss has her waiting system in order so once you inform her of your party's presence, keep calm and wait for a table.
Avg Price: RM20
Photo by Burppler Trisha Toh

This women-run restaurant with no signboard is famous in the area for dishing up some delicious Hong Siew Yu Tao, or stewed fish head cooked on a wood fired stove. I’m not the most ardent fan of freshwater fish taste, but the garlicky, fermented soy gravy was delicious and made up for the pungent fishy taste. Also worth noting is their stir fry pork innards filled with wok hei.

Like any good Chinese restaurant, it’s less about the decor and the service and more about the food — so come hungry but also be prepared to wait at least an hour for your meal.

Six words - spicy chili bean braised fish head. That, and bitter gourd spare ribs, char siew kai lan, belacan choy sam aaaaand stir fried intestines. The one-hour wait is worth it when you realise how much there is to see and savour, along with how little you'll have to pay for it. Six delicious dishes costed us a meagre RM83.50. Now that you've heard, run along and be sure to order big ✌🏼️