KANTIN (Jewel Changi)

The Superdry Laksa is definitely not what I had imagined it to be in the likes of nyonya and assam laksa. Not only does it use rice vermicelli, there was also no coconut in it. This savoury noodle dish was aromatic from the spices and herbs, and a subtle hint of sourness and spiciness. It came with Sarawak belacan that packed a heaty punch of flavour.

Bright and warming, the Sarawak Laksa at @kantinjewel is amongst one of the more authentic versions I've tasted. Think of it as a cross between your standard curry laksa crossed with Penang-style Assam laksa. The gravy is rich, spicy and tangy, without being too overpowering, allowing the diner to appreciate the other ingredients in the bowl. Plump prawns, shredded egg and chicken slices co-mingle with smooth rice noodles which have absorbed all the flavour of the laksa gravy for a melange of delightful tastes and textures.

Wok-fried to smoky perfection, the slurp-worthy noodles were chockful of fluffy egg and crunchy beansprouts for plenty of texture. Each plate comes with a trio of juicy prawns, omelette strips and cracklingly crispy and succulent fried chicken.

Magnificently smoky and tangy Sawarakian pineapple fried rice, served with a liberal sprinkling of crispy tapioca leaves and chicken floss. Every al dente grain was inbued with flavour and chunks of pineapple dotted the rice. The chicken satay was tender and succulent, what made it even better was a marinade of gula apong palm sugar. Extracted from indigenous mangrove trees, the sap imparted a fragrant sweetness with a whisper of salinity to the meat.

I don't recall salmon being part of traditional Bornean cuisine, but this was good enough for me not to care. The massive hunk of pan-seared salmon was rich and fatty, sat on an island of mash potato in the middle of a sea of creamy tomato sauce, both of which went swimmingly well with the fish.

Probably Singapore’s first restaurant specialising in Borneo cuisine, @kantinjewel gets an unequivocal thumbs up from me. Situated on the picturesque, skylit top floor of Changi Jewel amidst a cluster of other bars and restaurants, this establishment serves full-flavoured dishes that though not wholly authentic, will definitely pique your palate with their fulsome fusion flavours.
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The verdant green fried rice was suffused with the aroma of herbs and wok hei, and topped with addictive crispy fried tapioca leaves. Also impressive were the golden nuggets of crunchy deep-fried cauliflower that proved to be quite popular around the table.