The place is absolutely charming - reminiscent of a rustic Tuscan country home missing only a roaring fireplace - and is bestrode by the lovely Lady Boss and her team of patient waiters who had accommodated us despite being fully booked for the night.
The food is as homey and pleasant as the place is warm and welcoming. We found faultless, fuss-free simplicity in the Pollo alla Milanese (fried breadcrumbed chicken thigh) - not merely because it's just fancy fried chicken, but because it ticked all the right boxes: Juicy and well-brined, with just the right amount of crispy-crumbliness minus the repulsive fattiness of a hawker centre version.
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