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The best versions are around Ayer Itam but I found a very good one at Moh Teng Pheow Nyonya Koay in Georgetown.⁠⠀
The restaurant itself is worth a visit. Think rustic and homely, and you'll be on track.⁠⠀
Besides the assam laksa, the pastries are worth trying, and if you find nasi kunyit on the menu that day, order it. This is turmeric glutinous rice with curry, and it is HEAVENLY!