I blame it all on the caramelised apples. The thing about caramelised apples I’ve tried elsewhere is they’ve usually got a couple of problems: either the apples are too soft and textureless (ie boiled in too much liquid rather than caramelised), overly sour (way too heavy handed on the lemon), or just one dimensional in general. These? Earthy, sweet, sticky, reminiscent of toffee and cinnamon, with just the right dose of citrus to keep it light and refreshing. And if you ignore that whole lot on how amazing it all tastes, just take a moment to appreciate how beautiful this piece turned out, with the perfect quenelle of crème fraîche, slices of fresh green apples, and that glistening caramelised apples.