Skin that crackles like dry parchment, meat that's moist but suffused with smoke... mmhm.

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Because boiling satay gravy, with a dark sweetness from Gula Melaka, makes everything better.

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Never heard of this dish before but what a treat - its har jeong gai tossed with the pickled ginger and honey, to make a coating that contrasts sharply with the crisp, savoury chicken.

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Plenty of garlic is nice, and nicer still for not getting in the way of the scallops' sweetness and bounce.

Tsk... the soup is oddly sweet, the noodles rather hard (I ordered normal), and the charsiu has the right texture but is again sweet and not steeped enough. Stick to the truffle dry.

The perfect cure for the stifling evening heat.

The brisket is still not quite perfect, with its membranes still chewy, but that gravy is a fine balance of cream and sting.

But the key here is clearly the Lor bak (braised pork belly): as magnificent as it is munificent.

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Two members of the Chinese holy trinity, and plenty of wok hei, to make a simple homely dish.

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No gimmick, nor space for gimmicks. Just The fish's fat rendered, then made smoky and sweet and perfect.

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